Monday, July 10, 2017

July 3rd - 7th, 2017 - The Place No One Wanted

G&C Summer 2017
Blogpost 012
July 3rd – July 7th

The Place No One Wanted


If there’s one thing any traveler of the great American mid-western ramparts can and will take away from their journey regardless of extent, weather, or company is that there’s a whole lot of nuthin’ to be found in it. I’m writing this journal entry on the 7th of July at the Red Desert Rose Campground in Rawlins middle of nowheresville Wyoming, several days after our bout atop the colossal majesty of the mountains of Glacier if for no other reason other than; there simply isn’t too much to discuss or reflect on. Since Montana we’ve been through three more states and added another thousand miles to our journey and yet my mid-trip conclusion remains as such; that for every awe-inspiring plot of beautiful land there’s about fifty aches worth of barren waste to balance it out. Let it be known that this is not a flat-out insult to the natural earthen void that is Idaho-Utah farm country but rather an appreciation of its vast blandness for without it who knows how much more we humans would for granted the prettier parts of our home planet (especially the luscious eastern-American coastline that I have and forever will call “home).   
            Our destination post-Glacier, was Moscow Idaho, home of the U-Idaho Vandals and Washington State University aka the Butch-T Cougars; an oasis of civilization in an otherwise plain sea of potato-centric agricultural. The purpose for our visitation was for the universities’ entomology collections where Charlotte had reached out ahead of time a request to examine and database their asilid specimens. This was to be the first of many insect museum stops for the summer as well as the primary reason for us taking to the mass network of yellow-dashed asphalt that is the American highway system. While I, not being a scientist in the slightest despite earning my undergraduate degree in psychological studies but considering my background in the “soft-sciences” I was considered to be as useful as a pair of 3D glasses to Polyphemus the cyclops. Because of this fact I spent my day in the Idaho Inn catching up on some much needed alone time which involved writing, video editing, and catching up with family via phone where I learned from my mother that I’d already visited Moscow ID once before in utero as well as Glacier National Park some twenty-four and a-half years prior. I was also tasked with the completion of my fiancé’s and I’s collective laundry at the local laundromat across the street; and I must say the nervous glances I received in that place at the sight of me public reading my hardcover copy of the Complete Cthulhu Mythos. I suspect they thought me of a daemonic cultist or worse, a DEMOCRAT!!! As I carried out my daily chores Chot performed her scientific duties with great enthusiasm and found herself in high esteem by the museum curator who ferried her to WSU in order to grace their collection with her work. She was also rewarded with a quick visit to a grizzly bear sanctuary as was kind enough to take pictures for me though I was not at all envious for I was having a lovely day to myself in the hotel.

A not so great picture of some grizzlies

            The next day we left the state of Idaho for another familiar location that my fiancé and I were no stranger too, Salt Lake City. Where the followers of Joseph Mormon came to the Oquirrh Mountains and collectively said, “screw that” and settled in the shaded foothills. We’d spent a day and a night in the city last summer coming from the R lazy S ranch en-rout to California and having never been to the supposed “capitol of the mid-west” we deicide the split the trip in half and see the Mormon-Mecca for ourselves. Our experience was a strange one, eerily reminiscent of an early Twilight Zone episode as it was Sunday on our arrival and the city was almost completely empty of residents. Both Chot and myself were equal parts fascinated and perturbed feeling much like the block from the bringing of 28 Days Later, I’m sure. And although we were aware that this being a city chock-full of devote later-day saints keeping true to the sabbath it’s still downright freaky to walk about in a empty city. Well, not entirely empty, there were plenty hoards of homeless around every corner to really drive the post-apocalypse vibe home. That, or the rapture had happened and we were just none the wiser. Fortunately for us gentiles (which is weird to write as a half-Jew) judgment day was not the case as it had been a year later and the same city was sprawling with its regular array of devote citizens in addition to the homeless ones. Then again we were visiting in the middle of the week this time.
            But before we entered the city we’d decided to take a slight detour and visit the Great Salt Lake in person, a mistake we realized we made last summer. To experience the great primordial lake and all it’s glory you’ll have to set your sights for the state park, Antelope Island; the largest landmass open to the public which is in truth more of a man-made peninsula. It costs five dollars a head to enter but once you’re past the gates you’re given free range of the park, provided that you keep to the roads and trails and do not engage the wild bison that inhabit the island. My fiancé and I were surprised at just how alien the landscape could be; surprisingly hilly with scattered tan upheavals of bare rock between huge tracks of pale-yellow grass. Hardly anything grows on Antelope Island but what can one expect when a mostly dead body of water surrounds it. The Great Salt lake itself is a miracle of nature that deserves recognition of its own right; 1,700 square miles long but with a max depth of just thirty-seven feet deep America’s Dead Sea is all that’s left remnant of the prehistoric Bonneville Lake whose shallowness and extreme mineral quantity is the result of there being no escape for the water (except evaporation) that comes off of the mountains. Essentially the water in the lake has been the same for thousands of years making it impossible for any life forms to thrive in it’s salty basin save for brine-prawns and Sea Monkeys. In fact, the Great Salt Lake is known as the “Sea Monkey Capital of the World,” and is responsible for 90% of the global fish food industry. It’s also incredibly ripe with insect life; grasshoppers, brine-flies, and other pesky critters flourish in the island’s grasslands having no real predatory threats except for the adorably obese jumping spiders who just sit atop grass stalks and wait for prey to literally jump into their mouths. Charlotte was fortunate enough to spot and capture a sole asilid after over an hour of hunting. We would have stayed longer but the heat and onslaught of curious brine-flies to our limbs and faces was enough to cut our Island-adventure short and besides, we had business in the city.  

Antelope Island


Hot and Tired, but also super happy :)
            Our purpose here was the same as in Moscow; Charlotte had arranged a day in the Natural History Museum of Utah, to look at asilids while I labored away on Photoshop for this video commercial with seemingly no end in sight. Fortunately the museum’s sole insect-curator was so grateful to find someone to curate and database her asilid collection, that she rewarded my fiancé with two free day-passes to the museum. We spent the greater part of the afternoon at their exquisite Viking exhibit which was appropriate considering the fact that we’ve been planning for a “slight” Viking theme for our wedding; and considering Charlotte’s heritage is Scandinavian it’s more justifiable then most theme-weddings we’ve seen plastered on the internet and social media.
            With out business in Salt Lake completed we set off on our next destination: I-don’t-know-where in someplace-Wyoming at a little camping complex called Red Desert Rose. This is more of a halfway point to Denver Colorado but two four-hour drives is far superior to one that’s eight-hours in total. Unfortunately there wasn’t much to discuss for this day. The scenery is bland and uninspiring and so far the biggest highlight on my end has been the start of a new book, Fyodor Dostoyevsky’s 19th century classic, The House of the Dead; the semi-autobiographical account of the author’s time and observations of life inside a Siberian prison camp. It’s dreary and dismal but fascinating and gracefully scribed. As I read my fiancé frolicked among the campgrounds and caught ten asilids before harvesting them of their venom glands in the makeshift laboratory she set up in our tent. We’re a morbid bunch, aren’t we? 

Charlotte's dissection station


            

 George's writing station


Fun with some sculptures at the campground!





Wednesday, July 5, 2017

June 30th-July 2nd - “The Great Debacle on the Way to the Sun”

G&C Summer 2017
Blogpost 011
June 30th-July 2nd

“The Great Debacle on the Way to the Sun”




The final morning of our time spent at Lubrecht research forest was low-key but ran smoothly as pack-up-and-go days tend to be. Our next stop was Glacier National Park, arguably Montana’s grandest attraction and one of this country’s most impressive protected landmasses. Charlotte had initially planned for us to visit the park but scrapped it at the last minute to accommodate for our travel to the University of Idaho for the college’s entomology collection. Her mind was changed however when I made mention of a conversation I’d had earlier with one of my oldest and dearest friends from home, Zachary, who asked if we were planning on visiting Glacier whilst we were in Montana. Through a short series of enthusiastic text messages Zach informed me of how it was, “legitimately the most beautiful place” he’d ever seen. Upon relaying the message to Charlotte her mind had changed and so it was to be the next stop of our massive summer road trip.
            But before the wheels of our vehicle could begin their long arduous spinning north we decided to turn them towards Garnet; where Montana’s best-preserved ghost town hides. We had all day to reach Glacier and the drive would only take a handful of hours plus Garnet was just a mere eleven miles away from Lubrecht. So after a quick fill up at a Sinclair gas station and thirty-minute ride through winding gravel roads we made it to the abandoned village where miners once made their living before the industry took off by the seat of its pants. Howbeit, it was on our arrival to the anything but desolate Garnet parking lot that Charlotte came to a startling realization, a realization that would kick-start the greatest debacle of the summer (so far anyway). Upon our arrival Charlotte became aware of something crucial (like the residents of Garnet long ago) was no longer among us, her wallet.

            Everyone looses things from time to time and a wallet’s no exception. Lord knows I loose mine every other day through sheer absent-mindedness but my fiancé never looses anything of importance, ever. Apart from being overly meticulous with our belongings having their own specific places she’s a strong follower of her “rules of logic;” in that an item (or items) should/must be placed in the most logical location so that in the event one does completely forget where a thing is they can easily locate it. This is no surprise considering her scientific background and logic-oriented mind; in fact because of this Charlotte’s been able to help me find just about all of my lost possessions throughout the years without even knowing the last place I’d had them. It’s almost a shame she never considered detective work. Just give her a topographical map of Mount St. Helens with the weather records of Ariel WA November 24, 1971 and she could find the bones of DB Cooper. But on this particular day she had absolutely no idea where her wallet was or could have been. One thing was certain, however, it was not in the car and the last place she had it was at the Sinclair but our backtracking to the gas station was in vein. No wallet. Either somebody lifted it or it’d had been flung into oblivion from the roof of the car (where Charlotte sometimes placed things at gas stations and rest stops).
            We scoured the roadsides and asked the friendly gas station attendant if anyone had turned it in but neither was all that helpful. The wallet was gone. Somebody had taken it.
Mortified and guilt-ridden Charlotte requested a sudden change of plans which I was more than happy to accommodate for; we would have to drive into the nearest city to give our cellphones some service so we could call the various card companies and cancel them before some shady character maxed them out buying a jet ski or whatever wallet-snatching Montanans buy these days.
            On our way to Missoula (which was approximately 30 miles away) we joked about how my fiancé’s luck must have finally ran out for this trip; the spirit of the fancy cowboy of Elko had come to collect his fifty dollars-worth of fortune. As we crossed into the city limits and regained our powers of communication with the outside world a ring came from Charlotte’s phone from an unknown number. She answered and from the change in her voice and glow in her eyes I could tell that her luck was anything but depleted. A cyclist had discovered my fiancé’s black rectangular cardholder abandoned on the side of the road while on his morning ride and had taken it home to return it to the rightful owner. The cyclist found Charlotte’s AAA card and called to retrieve her personal number which was easy to obtain as the Montanan AAA had it on file from our blown-out tire incident in the week prior. Even in misfortune, Fortuna seems compelled to shower Chot with the magic of alls-well-that-ends-well. So after a second unexpected detour to the cyclist’s personal lake house where he, his wife, and a slew of freaky clown-face painted timber trunks resided we retrieved the wallet and turned our sights to Glacier.


To get to Glacier National Park from the outer Missoula area you have to traverse through many shabby small towns embedded in scenic mountain-river valleys but once you hit the township of Hungry Horse (which is probably the worst name imaginable for a community) you begin to see the signs of a thriving tourist-based economy.
            Enormous gift shops line the motorways besides outdoor tourist traps of every variety; helicopter-tours, oversized monkey house inspired obstacle courses, and yeti-zip-lining to name a few. But if you have the self-restraint and integrity to drive past all that you’ll find yourself at the gate of Glacier, which, upon our arrival had just opened their GOING-TO-THE-SUN, road.
            I had never heard of such a road nor knew of its popularity. The cyclist and his wife were ecstatic to inform us of it when we told them our plans to spend two nights and a day in the park and I can understand why; everyone and their stepchildren seemed to be there for that exact reason. As we pulled up to the tollbooth-esque barrier between the park and the outside world we were astonished to find every camp site was full for the evening. Charlotte’s mishap with her wallet set us back several hours and so the price was camping in a small price-gouging campground called the Five Lakes Resort just outside Glacier.
            We just stayed the night, tired from stress and travel and we had a busy day ahead of us for like a couple of hyperactive ants stumbling upon a colossal caucus we wanted to be the first ones there so we could explore the whole thing snout-to-tail.
           
On the morning of the first of July (the first Saturday of the park’s open season) we made our first gamble of day, trying to find a camping spot. We made it through the park around nine in the AM but a tidal wave of nuclear families in their RVs and granola-crunchers in their open-toed shoes had the same idea. At first we thought we were too late and would have to go back to the Five Lakes and reset our tent but the park rangers greeting us inside offered us a sliver of hope; though most of the Glacier camp sites were full of campers spending the weekend (and longer) there was no confirmation in the Apgar camp. Apgar being the largest sight in the park we thought to test Charlotte’s luck again. I can’t remember how many times we circled the various rivets of Apgar’s suburban-style camp grounds, with freshly paved roads in-between patches of gravel big enough to house at least one monster-sized recreational vehicle apiece in-between snippets of wilderness.
            Sure enough most sights had been reserved for multiple days but luckily we came across a sweet gaggle of young Canadian hiker-girls who were leaving that day, graciously offering their sight to us, which we pounced on. And after the brief setting-up-the-tent interlude that we’ve become all too familiar with, my fiancé and I were ready to hit the park and take in all it’s serene resplendence.
            Our plan for the park involved taking the Going-to-the-Sun road because is stretched across the bulk of Glacier and therefore allow us to cram in as much natural wonderment into our eye sockets while giving us enough time after to select one of the many hikes to choose from. Our first stop was along the shores of lake MacDonald with waters so clear you’d swear it was fake. Charlotte informed me that it is because the lakes within Glacier are entirely from snowmelt and lack plankton due to cold temperatures, hence the otherworldly clarity. Our next stop was of the lower glacial falls that flowed into MacDonald, the banks were teaming with bloated tourists wearing confederate flag-print headwear but the falls themselves were altogether lovely.

Lake McDonald

So Clear!!! 
Glacier Falls
            We preceded our drive along the ever-increasing rim of the mountainsides through man-made tunnels carved into the rocks occasionally dripping (or outright pouring) with downpour of last winter’s snow that would be melting all summer long. As our elevation increased so did our fascination with the enormity of the park’s majesty. Words do little justice as well as the countless pictures we took but to summarize; the ancientness of Glacier was and is so vast that measurement of its splendor was and is feeble to human comprehension. In other words, my friend Zachary was right.
            We drove on through the various world-renowned stops along our Going-to-the-Sun drive such as The Weeping Wall, massive chunks of glacial snow, and across mountain peaks so large and profound you could see the faces of the titanic lords early man had seen projected on their stoic rock faces. It was clear to us then why this drive was so revered to so many as it was basically a theme park ride you went about at your own pace and could stop at any point to sightsee, climb, or have lunch.
            About halfway through our drive we stopped off besides one of Glaciers many ceaseless waterfalls and ate our lunch under the arched stone bridge where the falls turned a roaring stream. Soothed by the sounds of rushing water and kept cool from the hot sun we ate like peaceful riddle-trolls.
            After more driving and photo-snapping we reached the end of the road and promptly turned the other way to drive back down it and were just as surprised at how equally eye-opening the trip could be a second time. We wouldn’t stop until the Loop hike marker and proceeded to climb the six-mile round foot-trip through beargrass, freshly brunt trees made white by the sun, and small watery grottos scattered throughout the trails. The views were even better than from the road and if you listened closely you could hear the waterfalls from miles away across the vast chasm between mountains. On our way back to the car our path became one with that of a mother doe searching for her fawn (by Chot’s presumption). I don’t think I’d ever been that close to a deer before on foot as it was not startled by our presence in the slightest and had it not been for our total abundance of sanity we might have tried to pet and/or ride it like a drunkard in a petting zoo.
            The drive back to camp allowed our muscles to slowly inform our brains of just how much strain we’d put on them from climbing for hours in the high elevation which resulted in restless, uncomfortable sleep atop our air-mattress but nevertheless we were as pleased as contemporary hippies with new Birkenstocks.

Start: Lubrecht Experimental Forest, MT
End: Glacier National Forest, MT... With a few detours…

Traveled: ~ 200 miles



 Stunning Flowers everywhere!! 



Goofballs going for a hike!


Can you see George?!



One of the many glaciers!


Mating beetles :)


Hike #2


An unexpected roadblock... 


Tuesday, July 4, 2017

June 27th-30th, 2017 - NADS Field Meeting and the Art of Catching Flies

G&C Summer 2017
Blogpost 010
June 30th

June 27th - 30th, 2017 - NADS Field meeting and the Art of Catching Flies




Charlotte saw a bear on the research forest grounds, an adult black bear trudging about 10 yards between her and the main building. She was prepared however and knew to back up slowly, never taking her eyes off the lumbering creature who didn’t seem to be interested in homo sapiens-cuisine and continued on its way to wherever bears are hanging out these days. Once Chot was certain she was at a safe distance from the bulk of predatory wonderment she proceeded to take pictures for proof of the encounter. So far that’s one wilderness-concern come to life but still no sign of masked psychopathic wildmen (for now).

                                                 picture of the "black" bear
        

            Since our last journal entry was lengthy I’ll do my best to keep this one under a thousand words, which may be tricky because I’ll be condensing four days worth of adventure to said parameters. Fortunately this week was arguably less eventful (on my end anyway) so we’ll see how this goes.
            First and foremost, I should mention that the reason Charlotte and I were at Lubrecht Experimental Forest, MT, was so that Chot could go insect collecting while I stayed behind at the research center to work on some video editing projects I current have under my belt. Before we embarked on this multi-thousand mile pilgrimage I shot two commercials back-to-back. One was for an uncle (featuring a pellet smoker box) with no real due-date and the other was for a friend/client for their personal startup company. As you can imagine there’s more pressure to finish the later project. I’d completed most of the initial first cuts and animation bits before we left California but took a week off for Jackson-Hole. That unfortunately meant that this week (for me anyway) was spent sitting on my tushy and staring into the ethereal abyss that makes up the Adobe Creative suite.

Snowshoe Hare hanging around the dinning hall


            Charlotte’s week on the other hand was the exact opposite with every day involving multiple new hunting spots with her cohort. She traveled through forests, mountain ranges, riverbanks, and even through snow to catch her prized robber flies (by which she caught a total of 14). But let it be known that catching said robber flies is no easy matter for I’ve been told that they can see danger coming from a mile away, seeing as they’re predatory by nature and whatnot. And after each day’s end my fiancé would spend hours upon hours in the wet-lab pinning and dissecting her daily catches (in-between the occasional bear-sighting).

Charlotte at the Montana-Idaho Pass


Pretty trillium with snow in the background



            We were fortunate to spend one day this week hunting together on Wednesday the 28th. Our trip was divided into two locations; a riverbank of a valley in-between two massive Montanan mountains and a forested mountain park teaming with enough flies to horrify anyone without a diehard passion for entomological research (like me).
            I did not scream once but that did not stop the occasional EW-EW-EWWWWWW moments I endured in silence when a bee buzzed past my face or when a swarm of greasy mouth-puckering houseflies invaded my arm-skin for its rich, salty essence.
            This wasn’t my first collecting with my love and I’d been marginally successful at it so Charlotte gave me a net and two collecting vials and cut me loose into the wilderness like a hyperactive puppy without a clue of where to go and what not to pee on.
            I was instructed to consolidate my efforts to the numerous horizontal tree trunks lain strewn about the forest floor as Asilidae (robber flies) have been known for taking claim of natural structures like these as their own. Asilidae are territorial predators so a fallen edifice of decaying timber makes for the perfect place to just watch and wait for food to come to you, as well as a safe oviposition site.
            At first, both of us were having difficulty finding any Asilidae so we shifted our hunt to the treacherous slope of the mountain that lay parallel to the park. Apparently robber flies prefer territories at higher elevations and there were more than enough fallen trees for them to claim and sure enough there were robber flies a-plenty. Charlotte’s decision to come up this way would have been perfect had it not been for the sharp seventy-degree incline of gravel and loose soil for which we had to cross without slipping whilst stealthily stalking our microscopic prey. The feat was not an easy one; in fact it was nearly impossible. Charlotte managed only to bag two asilids while I captured three bee-flies (who look and act just like robber-flies but aren’t robber flies and therefor useless). Despite my best intentions my footing, stamina, and eyes just couldn’t compete with Charlotte’s and so I threw in the towel halfway up the slope after slipping on a rock and sliding butt-first down several yards of harsh Mother Nature.

First time ever seeing Bighorn Sheep!


A mom and her baby!




            Apparently the rest of the week’s entomological excursions proved to be less fruitful than the firsts but regardless, Charlotte had a lovely time socializing with fellow experts and fly-guys and spent a good, solid chunk of her time making much-needed dissections. I, on the other hand finished a complete-rough cut of my weekly project (though tweaking and photoshopping still needs to be administered). Yet I’d say that this week was a productive one. As I am writing this, my fiancé and I have already moved on from Lubrecht and are currently just beyond the threshold of Glacier national park. Tomorrow I’ll write of our first day in the park and tell of how Charlotte almost killed herself with a heart attack on the way. CHOW.
Cool Beargrass!


                                                  Charlotte overcoming her fear of snakes